Produce, produce, produce…fresh produce! There are tons of it here in Denmark. It might not always be the most exotic, but I guarantee that you’ll end up eating things here that a/ you never tasted before (ramps, lovage, all sorts of chanterelles..) and b/ you’ve tasted before but never truly appreciated (um, Danish strawberries anyone?).
The seasons are changing so summer’s been on the way out and fall quickly comes in its place (which can only mean that Danish apples are soon on the way – see this post from last year on apple picking here), but the nice thing about the rather mild but rainy climate here is that there seems to always be something in season. Especially now that more and more growers are branching out beyond just the apples (as good as they are) and potatoes thing here (ditto).
This summer we tried out a place that had been on our list for a long time – the Fuglebjerggaard Farm. If that doozy of a name sounds familiar, it might be because you caught the video of the picking excursion earlier on but here are the photos to prove it!
The farm is owned by Camilla Plum, kind of a Danish Donna Hay, who led the way in organic cooking here in Scandinavia way before it was an actual thing – you’ll find her books in any cooking section of a book store. On the farm, you’ll probably see Camilla herself. Doing the hard work by the way – this isn’t a show farm, it’s a working farm so while there is a sweet bucolic ambience, this place isn’t just for magazine spreads. Need a bathroom? Grab an outhouse.
There’s a kind of farmy-bohemia thing going on here as well – a little cafe serves up freshly baked cakes of the day that look like the neighbor brought them over, and the mismatched chipped china and antique silverware reminds me of the random collection of things at my grandfather’s garden plot in Poland.
And while it’s a farm, it’s not an industrial farm either. This isn’t the kind of place where there are hundreds of hectares of one plant – there’s a plot of strawberries here, interspersed with currant there, while chickens mill about. A plot of wildflowers meets a plot of wild onions and cabbages and carrots are just down the way. The smaller plots probably mean a whole lot more individualized work for the owners, but everything grows together.
The Fuglebjerggaard Farm, is about an hour from Copenhagen, and is open for visitors on the weekends. You can check up on the schedule of what’s available for self-picking on the website. A shop that looks like the inside of an Indian tuk-tuk offers heirloom seeds, healing herbs and other kitchen doodads and south asian trinkets, as well as a room full of Christmas ornaments in the back. Lots of families had children in tow, and our toddler fit right in – so if all week forest school isn’t an option for you, this is the type of outing that’s a close second. As it turns out, it’s pretty much the picture perfect farm you never knew you were missing out on. Oh, and don’t forget a slice of cake on your way out!
Ps- a few notes: one, Denmark is supposed to be home to more pigs than people (about three to five times more depending on your source), yet this is the only time any one of us have ever seen an actual pig. Two, green strawberries are a huge thing in Danish cooking right now – they seem to be at every “new nordic” restaurant we go to – apparently it’s driving up the price of unripened strawberries tremendously. And three, those flowers and roses smell every bit as beautiful as you would expect them to.
It might be back to school time, but as we prepare for one more big trip to close out the summer back to the US (I mean, summer officially ends September 21st right?), there are a still a few things from our summer adventures we have to post – especially since many of these activities can still be enjoyed through the fall – like going on a little safari for example!
You’ve seen the Safari Park Playground and got the tips for a successful visit, and if those haven’t convinced you to make a day trip out to the Knuthenborg Safari Park, hopefully these pics will! The park is open through October 18th so you still have a little bit of time to catch this very safari like experience of animals right here in Denmark, before the winter sets in.
I’ll be honest, I didn’t think going to a safari park would be that exciting. First of all, is this really a real way to see animals ? And second of all, we had been on a real safari a few years back (the toddler is the souvenir to prove it), and the experience was so special, I didn’t think a park would even come close.
And while the park is not a Karen Blixen style safari by any means, it actually comes a pretty solid second. Also it’s a lot closer and a lot cheaper than packing it up for the African wilds. But more importantly, if you have a child that loves animals, like we do, it will blow their minds.
A couple of things to know…the park is huge, relatively speaking – this is definitely a full day excursion, especially if you want to cover all areas of the park patiently. Also, there are a lot – and I mean, a lot – of animals here. I had thought it might be a giraffe or two, but there must be easily 20 or 30 of them in the savannah portion. It’s not just one camel – it’s a whole herd.
Even in the tiger enclosure, there must be about 4 or 5 cats. When you get out on in the tiger information center and thumb through the book of the many tiger species there used to be and realize that many of them ceased being in the 60’s…70’s…i.e. in our own time, you realize how special that is. Of all the parts of the park, I found the tigers the most moving. And they come close – CLOSE – to the car. I’m not a jumpy person – but most of the time I couldn’t even bring myself to hold up the camera and take a picture, because I was convinced tigers have supersonic hearing and would be able to pick up the sound of the shutter (even through our closed windows!) and attract a little too much of their attention. They way they move is absolutely stunning, and the fact that they could have you for dinner in one fell swoop but choose not to makes you feel grateful…appreciative even.
There are also many areas where you can pull over the car to take a closer look, or even get out of the car or open the windows – it all depends on the animals and whether you have good judgment. But for visitors both big and small, the ability to get so close to so many animals is quite something.
Our toddler pointing out plants to avoid because of stings – now who’s guiding who on this nature walk?
Perhaps just as interesting too is the outing itself. It’s very easy to spend time in Copenhagen and become convinced that you know things Danish. But the truth is, there’s a big difference between Copenhagen and the rest of this country in terms of what you will experience. The drive, which is about 1 hr 45 min (and yes, you need a car – you can not just bike through the safari park), is beautiful but it’s also eye-opening. You’ll learn a little bit about how the rest of Denmark, both in landscape and people, can be.
Overall, this was one of the more successful day trips we took this summer and something tells me, our toddler’s enthusiasm might just ensure we come back.
This park is huge, and an outing here can take the full day (be sure to read the tips on how to make the most of it) but be sure not to miss:
The tiger habitat and enclosure – take the time to get out of the car on the outside of the tiger enclosure to learn about Tiger research stations and brush up on the many species of tiger, most of them gone now
The baboon train – this thing is a riot and kids love it – you ride around on this enclosed train in the money area. We picked the hottest day of the year to come to Knuthenborg so that train was basically like a pressure cooker… You’re given a small portion of feed that looks like fruit loops (but is not so don’t eat it) for the baboons and monkeys who then basically swarm the train (you’re behind windows) and rub their baboon behinds all over trying to get it. The trains are timed at regular intervals and the feed monitored so that they don’t get overfed.
Looking around even when it seems there is nothing to see – in the wolf enclosure, we spotted a den full of new baby wolf pups!
The lemur walk – if your children have seen Madagascar, they’ll go nuts. They’ll probably go nuts anyway – you walk around this portion and the lemurs do too – those tails are even more amazing in real life
The petting zoo – there is a whole portion with smaller animals children can pet and touch and we actually missed this portion due to lack of time but I wouldn’t skip out on it next time!
Give the bison a big wave for me – I’m from North Dakota!
And they have not one but two rhinos…that might not seem like a lot but that’s a whole lot more than you’ll see in most places in the actual wild these days. They’re gorgeous.
One our favorite things about living Copenhagen is how easy it is to actually get out of it for day trips. When you have little ones, getting out to travel can be a handful, but the Northern coast of Zealand offers a handful of towns that offer something for both parents and children and everyone in between, all just about an hour outside of the capital. Perfect for long summer days on the beach, or brisk fall walks on the shore, we’ve put together a quick little guide on making the most of the Danish Riviera with toddlers!
Candidly, I think I went my entire adult life without hearing the term “Danish Riviera” but lately, I feel like I’ve seen it in countless magazines. Usually it involves pictures of the sweeping ocean line and people looking at each other romantically while pedaling on bicycles. You’ll definitely get ocean, and most probably bicycles, and possibly even the romance if you play your cards right… but the guides sometimes leave out to do with your littlest ones even though there are tons of options. So make the like the Danes and head to the beach (ahem, to the Riviera!).
As a family, we do a lot in the city, but given the lovely spring and summer days we’ve been having, my guess is that we head out north to the beach more than we head south to the city on any given weekend day, and I don’t think that will change much in the fall either. Here are some of our toddler’s favorites – and some from us as parents too:
KLAMPENBORG
Time from central Copenhagen: 25 minutes on public transportation
Why you’ll love it: It’s a beach…by public transportation. And it’s gorgeous – it’s easy to get to, pretty to look at, and while it can get crowded, it’s not overbearing. Festive is more like it. And as a bonus, Arne Jacobsen designed the life guard towers so you can also double count this as Danish design sightseeing.
Why your toddler will love it: It’s a beach…by public transportation. Honestly, a beach this nice and this close by to a city is a win-win all around. Lots of sand and fellow compatriots for a day in the sun, so it’s easy to meet up with other families here. And for children that really are up for an entire day of adventure, just across the Strandvej road is the Dyrehaven, the deer park, which is not only home to countless deer, but also the Bakken amusement park.
HUMLEBAEK
Time from central Copenhagen: 35 minutes on public transportation; 40 minutes driving
Why you’ll love it: When you visit Denmark, the chances of rain are always high. If you came to the Riviera for the beach, you’ll always need a back up plan and Humlebaek is it. Home to arguably one of the best museums in the country, the Louisiana Museum comes to the rescue when rain strikes, or when you just need a change of pace. But you won’t have to give up the sea views – it’s gorgeously located on a sweeping stretch of coast which you can enjoy from both the museum and the cafe.
Why your toddler will love it: This place practically invented children’s wings for art museums. There are art projects…there are crafts…there is a park amongst the Giacommetti’s…there’s a sculpture garden…and once that has all been exhausted and you’ve refueled with a yummy treat from the cafe or your own picnic, then there is of green space galore and access to the sea to burn off every single last ounce of energy, ensuring a quiet ride home.
HELSINGOR
Time from central Copenhagen: 55 minutes on public transportation; 45 minutes driving
Why you’ll love it: A charming town that’s home to Hamlet’s Castle, the history of maritime everything, and a walkable town center – this place could merit day trips upon day trips.
Why your toddler will love it: Our toddler actually loves this one so much that there is whole separate post on things to cool catch with your toddler in Helsingor.
HORNBAEK
Time from central Copenhagen: 1 hr 15 minutes on public transportation; 50 minutes driving
Why you’ll love it: It’s the St. Tropez of Denmark! If you’re an adult who likes St. Tropez, you’ll probably take issue with the accuracy of that statement, and then resign yourself eventually to knowing that’s as close as you’re going to get in Denmark. This town is straight up charming. Our favorite agenda is to catch early lunch in town (usually Strand Pavillionen on Friisvej), followed by beach time and ice cream. We’ve never left this place without a smile and sense of relaxation.
Why your toddler will love it: The beach is the main draw here, but it’s all the more a hit because there is one of the coolest playgrounds right on it. Lots of wooden structures for climbing and swinging, as well as wooden animals like seals and turtles to climb on and fuel the imagination with. You can’t help but take cues from the laid back Danish parents and let the kids be kids, hitting the snooze button on the helicoptering for a while. The close proximity of ice cream to the actual beach doesn’t hurt either, and when you need a break, mini golf and little electric cards are right next to the Strand Cafe. Some of the nicest, cleanest sand on the coast is on this beach as well, and the cove on the right-hand side offers calmer waters than the more open left side of the beach – perfect for your youngest aquanauts.
GILLELEJE
Time from central Copenhagen: 1 hr 30 minutes on public transportation; 55 minutes driving
Why you’ll love it: Much like Hornbaek, Gilleleje is just as charming and just as manicured, but the focus here is the harbor and not the beach (although there is one on the west side of town). It’s role in WWII is a nice opportunity to work in a history lesson. The harbor gives you the real seaside feel, and if you’re an early riser, you can catch the fishermen coming in and bidding out their catch. The fishing industry used to be bigger than it is now, but it’s still very much the feel of this town. Fish’n’chips on the harbor is a lunch or dinner worth making time for.
Why your toddler will love it: Because fishing is the name of the game here, there are all sorts of opportunities for your little one to try it out. Buy a 20 DKK fishing net at the shop on the harbor and watch them entertain themselves for hours, fishing for nothing in particular in the shallower water. Crab rods and other doodads also available and often, they have a catch of crabs that children are encouraged to explore and play with (watch those fingers!) right on the dock.
TISVILDELEJE
Time from central Copenhagen: 1 hr 20 minutes on public transportation; 45 minutes driving
Why you’ll love it: A long stretch of beach as far as the eye can see, rated as a “Blue Flag Beach” meaning the water quality and local environment are a fiercely guarded priority. When beach weather isn’t on the menu for the day, the “plantage” right behind the beach of wind whipped pines growing up until the sands are a beautiful place for a walk or horseback ride.
Why your toddler will love it: While the sand isn’t as soft as in Hornbaek, it is still quite clean and here the water stays shallow for longer, giving little ones a little extra room to play before hitting the deep. And there’s an ice cream shack right on the water – need I say more? Beyond the town, there is a great nature playground (for a forest school like experience) over on the family holiday grounds at Sankt Helene, and the town is full of little restaurants for an easy dinner that flows right into the sunset.
If the Danish Riviera is starting to sound appealing (and it should), there is a little bit more about some our trips here:
(and also, don’t forget the Denmark Derby series over on the other blog!)
But don’t just take my word for it – in fact, these are far from comprehensive. We still have tons to check out (up next on our trip list is Hundesved Harbor for example). So if the Danish Riviera is on your trip list, here are a few more guides that might help out:
Because we live nearly right on the sea, forest school here for my daughter takes place on the beach or on the ocean just about as often as it does in the woods (lucky girl, right?). We’ve always loved a little waterside time as a family, so Denmark’s plentiful seaside towns, many of them close to Copenhagen, have really given us lots to do on weekends. Gilleleje is a favorite of ours for days when we need something other than just the beach.
Our daughter’s perspectives after forest school really made us approach these towns in a new way – all of the sudden, beach days aren’t just about swimming and sunshine (though we like that too – ahem, Hornbaek, ahem). These days we’re more apt to learn from her rather than she from us – telling us what lives in this type of water, what might be under the rock, how you can take out fish eyeballs and other handy lessons for life…
In fact, as a reward for earlier good behavior we told her she could pick out a souvenir from the shop on the water that we like to visit. It’s the kind of place that makes me want to buy yards of different cables and ropes meant for sailors, even though we don’t sail… After passing by a few toys, she settled on a crab fishing rod that made her beam with delight (so much so that she even insisted on sleeping with it – i removed it though after her eyes quickly shut on the ride back, afraid as any parent of anything resembling a rod close to an eye – I’m not quite that Danish yet…). As we didn’t exactly know how to use it, we didn’t catch anything though she had a blast trying. Since that day, she brought it to school for show and tell and the whole class subsequently went out to use it, they even had a crab themed week, and now she can catch them like any pro on the circuit.
Also at the top of list to things to get in Gilleleje are the children’s nets. Fishing, butterfly catching – these things are all purpose and no respectable Denmark-raised child is without at least three of these (!). To make summer sweeter, there was also a great strawberry stand set up which ended up being the perfect dessert to eat right then and there on the harbor.
Gilleleje is a laid back town, known for it’s earlier fishing industry, but also for its significant history during WWII as an escape point for rowing out to Sweden. A small marker commemorates that, though most people pass it by, in favor of the lovingly kept traditional homes and fresh fish and chips on the water.
Further down the dock, there’s a place where children can race crabs, getting into the mucky water to fish them out and send them down the race chute. I’m not sure how the crabs – or PETA – would feel about that, but it was great to see kids just being kids. Getting dirty, getting excited, getting fresh air…The sun didn’t go down until about 10 o’clock. Summers in Denmark are such that you might have to throw a vest on against the chill, but all of these other things still make it feel like summer just the same.
